Koshe Kosha review: A dose of nostalgia flavoured with homesickness [4.5/5]

As a Bengali who has been out of West Bengal – soon to be Bangla – for close to two decades, I have always hankered for home-cooked food. A part of that hankering got satiated on a chance visit I made to one of the two outlets of Koshe Kosha – an eatery chain that specialises Bengali cuisine and derives its name from an especially flavourful rendition of a mutton curry: the Kosha Mangsho.

Koshe Kosha Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Ambience

Koshe Kosha has an ambience that is an amalgam of old-world Bengali charm and modern amenities. While the décor has touches of modernity, the table and chairs invoke nostalgia with their design.

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And then there’s a wall-mounted rack full of Bengali books. We Bengalis are often derided as bookworms. This was one occasion I would gladly endure such derision.

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The food

I was feeling especially nostalgic on this day. Perhaps this, combined with a lightness of the pocket, prompted me to order some Aloo-r Dom – Dum Alu for those from up north – and Luchi – Poori for those living above the Vindhyas – to snack on.

However, little was I to know that Koshe Kosha manages to draw you in with something more: After I had placed the order, I saw a plate of crispy fired snacks – some would refer to them by the generic name fryums – placed on my table. And it was complimentary!

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But like any good foodie – a near-synonym for a good Bengali – I refrained from downing the whole plate, and instead nibbled on the crispy, light snacks until the Aloo-r Dom arrived.

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The gravy looked thick and brown, with the pungent aroma of the spices engulfing me in an embrace that transported me back home, where I had not been for close to two years now.

And then came the Luchi. Honestly, they were a disappointment to the sight, because they looked like deflated versions of what I had been traditionally served at home.

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Thankfully, I managed to look past this and got down to some eating. And each bite proved to be a fresh trip down memory lane. I had intended this meal to be a snack, but by the end of it my stomach was full and my heart was content – and half the Aloo-r Dom was still in the plate!

I managed to get that packed and took it home, enjoying it on another occasion.

Final words on Koshe Kosha

Koshe Kosha is a restaurant you order from every day and still have a heavy wallet. It will leave you with too much month at the end of your salary if you do.

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Koshe Kosha is best enjoyed with the entire family, where each bite invokes a fresh old memory, a fresh round of reminiscence and a fresh wave of warmth through the entire body, like the proximity of a loved one.

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